Home Network & WiFi Installation in Edmonton N9, N18

The £99 starting price is specifically for either:

• A single wireless access point (WAP) install within reach of your existing router, or
• Swap-and-commission of an existing access point — replacing a faulty / outdated AP with a new one and configuring it on your network

Everything else gets quoted after a free site survey: multiple ethernet drops, full-home structured cabling, garden-office runs, office network setups with switches and racks, point-to-point bridges. We walk the property, plan cable routes, signal-test for dead zones, then send you a written fixed quote.

What changes the quote: number of network points / RJ45 sockets, cable routing complexity (loft access, brick walls, soffit boxing, conduit), managed switch / patch panel needs, wireless access points, and any outdoor or outbuilding extensions.

One trip, fixed quote, no daily-rate creep. Business installs itemised so they’re tax-deductible.

WiFi blackspots in homes and offices come from physics — wireless signal weakens through brick walls, foil-backed insulation, and distance from the router. Common dead-zone patterns:

• Upstairs rooms when the broadband router is downstairs (90% of UK homes)
• Far corner of the office away from the modem
• Garden offices, sheds, outbuildings — no signal at all
• Bathrooms / kitchens with foil-backed plasterboard or appliances blocking signal
• WFH / Zoom dropouts when too many devices share one router

What actually fixes it (in order of effectiveness):

1. Hardwired ethernet to a second access point — best fix, kills dead zones permanently
2. Mesh WiFi system with 2–3 nodes (TP-Link Deco, Eero, Netgear Orbi)
3. Powerline adapter (HomePlug / ethernet over power) — cheap stopgap if cable runs aren’t possible
4. Move the router — sometimes solves 50% of the problem for free

What doesn’t work long-term: WiFi extenders / repeaters cut speed in half. We rarely recommend them.

Each has its place:

Mesh WiFi (wireless mesh network) — multiple nodes talking to each other wirelessly. Good for 3-bed homes, single-floor offices, no cable runs needed. Limitations: speeds drop with each hop; thick walls still problematic.

Ethernet cabling (CAT6 / CAT6A hardwired structured cabling) — proper network cable to network points throughout your space. Good for gigabit speeds at every socket, future-proofing, larger and business properties. The gold standard.

Powerline adapters (HomePlug / ethernet over power) — sends data through your existing electrical wiring. Good for cheap fix or single dead room. Limitations: speeds drop sharply on older wiring or split RCBOs.

Our default for most installs: CAT6 ethernet to 2–4 access points — wired backbone, wireless coverage. For tight budgets or rentals, a 3-node mesh kit. Powerline only as a temporary fix.

Honest version: most ISP-supplied broadband routers / hubs / gateways are designed cheap, not great. They cover the room they’re in and a bit beyond.

ISP routers tend to fail when:

• House is more than 2 bedrooms or has thick walls
• More than ~10 connected devices (modern households + smart home easily hit 30+)
• Garden office, loft conversion, or outbuilding needs coverage
• You’re on Zoom/Teams while someone else streams 4K
• Business broadband but you’re running off the freebie hub from BT Business / Virgin Business

What we install instead:

• Keep your ISP modem (it terminates the broadband line)
• Disable its WiFi
• Add a proper router or PoE switch + one or more wireless access points
• For small business: a managed UniFi or TP-Link Omada setup with VLAN-ready guest WiFi

This isn’t ‘rip out and replace’ — we layer proper networking on top of your existing broadband.

Yes — small business and office networks are about half our Edmonton work. Standard small-office setup includes:

• Structured CAT6 cabling to each workstation (typically 2 ethernet points per desk — primary + spare)
• PoE switch (8/16/24-port depending on size) to power access points and IP phones
• Wireless access points ceiling-mounted for full coverage
• Separated guest WiFi (VLAN-isolated from your business network)
• VoIP-ready — handsets plug into PoE switch directly
• Printer / NAS / shared drives properly addressed on the network
• Patch panel + small wall-mount rack if space allows

We work around your business hours — most installs in one full day or split over a weekend to avoid downtime. Hand-over with a network map, switch port labelling, admin login details. Invoice itemised for tax/accounts purposes. Final price quoted after a free site survey.

A wireless access point (WAP, also called AP or hotspot) is a ceiling- or wall-mounted device that broadcasts WiFi. Unlike a router, it doesn’t manage your internet — it just provides wireless coverage. Powered by ethernet (PoE), one cable run does both data and power.

How many you need:

• Small flat / 2-bed home — 1 access point (often well-placed router is enough)
• 3–4 bed home / typical UK semi — 2 access points (one upstairs, one down, hardwired between)
• Larger home / loft conversion / extension — 3 access points
• Small office (up to 10 staff, single floor) — 2 access points (front + back of office)
• Multi-floor office or larger commercial unit — 3–6 access points, one per zone

Why APs beat consumer mesh: dedicated APs (UniFi, TP-Link Omada, Netgear) handle 50+ devices each, support fast handover between APs, and don’t slow with each hop. Mesh is a consumer compromise; APs are the proper solution.

Yes — minimal-mess routing is what we specialise in. Standard routes:

• Loft → down internal wall (most common — single cable from loft to a downstairs office or living room socket)
• Soffit boxing → loft (external runs from upstairs to garden office, around fascia)
• Existing conduit / plastic trunking along skirting where loft access doesn’t reach
• Under floorboards — lift one or two boards, run, replace (usually invisible after)
• Lift carpets at edges for short ground-floor runs

What we never do: chase brick walls or knock holes for cable. If a route truly isn’t achievable, we use cable conduit matched to fascia colour and tell you upfront.

Cable type: CAT6 by default (gigabit, future-proof for most homes/offices). CAT6A if you want 10Gb-ready (heavier cable, more cost, worth it for new commercial fit-outs). CAT5e only on existing intact runs.

A typical 4-point home install — no holes in painted walls, no chasing brick.

Frustrating, and almost always router or signal-side, not your broadband line. Common causes:

• Router can’t handle device load — 30+ connected devices is normal in modern households + smart home; ISP routers struggle past 15
• WiFi 5 router on a WiFi 6/6E phone or laptop — backwards compatible but slower than it should be
• Channel interference — neighbours’ WiFi on the same 2.4GHz channel, microwaves, baby monitors, Bluetooth
• Distance — your laptop drops to 2.4GHz when far from the router; speeds halve
• Router firmware out of date — never updated

Quick test: plug your laptop directly into the router via ethernet for the next call. If stable wired, your WiFi is the problem. If still dropping, the broadband line is — call the ISP.

Proper fix for hybrid workers and home offices: dedicated access point near your work area + ethernet-backhauled. Zero dropouts, full gigabit speed. Most Edmonton customers say this is the best WFH upgrade they’ve made.

We install based on use case, not loyalty:

• TP-Link Deco / Eero (Amazon) — best for straightforward home mesh. Easy app, decent speeds, good value
• UniFi (Ubiquiti) — best for prosumer homes + small-medium business. Enterprise-grade, ceiling APs, managed switches, free network controller. Our most-recommended for offices
• TP-Link Omada — UniFi-like business range at a slightly lower price point. We install both
• Netgear Orbi — solid premium home mesh, more expensive than Deco/Eero, comparable performance
• Asus / Linksys — fine for tech-confident DIY, less good for the install-and-leave market
• Avoid for permanent installs: BT/Virgin/Sky branded mesh extensions (locked into their ecosystem), Google Nest WiFi (subscription-driven, declining feature set)

Default choice: Deco for budget homes, UniFi for offices, large homes, tech-fluent households, Omada when budget matters but you want managed gear.

Yes — outbuilding WiFi is one of our most-requested installs since 2020. Two approaches:

Approach 1: Ethernet under-conduit (preferred)

• Run external CAT6 in PVC conduit from house to outbuilding
• Cable buried 30cm minimum if going under a path/lawn, or surface-clipped along fence
• Outbuilding gets a wired access point — full gigabit, indistinguishable from house WiFi
• Same network, same SSID — your phone hands over without you noticing

Approach 2: Wireless point-to-point bridge (if cable run is impossible)

• Two directional antennas — one on the house, one on the outbuilding
• Up to 100m line-of-sight, gigabit speeds
• Slightly higher than ethernet, more weather-dependent

Final cost quoted after a free site survey — depends on cable distance to the outbuilding, ground conditions, and any wall-mounting needed.

Yes — these are standard features of every business install:

• Guest WiFi (VLAN-isolated) — separate network for visitors / customers / non-staff. They can’t see business devices or files. Set up on a different SSID, timer-based access if you want
• Staff WiFi — main business network with access to printers, shared drives, NAS
• VPN access — remote workers / managers logging in from home or on the road. Site-to-site VPN if you have multiple offices
• Network monitoring — UniFi/Omada dashboard shows live device activity, who’s connected, any unusual traffic patterns
• Pay-per-callout standard — same callout structure as our electrical work
• Monthly support packages available on request, priced based on network size and on-site response time you need

For homes: same guest WiFi separation included on UniFi installs, no contract needed unless you want one.

Typical install timeline:

• Free site survey first — we walk the property, identify cable routes, signal-test for dead zones, agree the design with you. Free, no obligation
• Written fixed quote within 24 hours, itemised
• Install day — typically one full day for a 4-point home, one to two days for a small office
• Standard hours: 9am–5pm. For businesses we can split into evenings or weekends to avoid downtime

During the install:

• Loft access needed (we provide a ladder, take care of insulation)
• Cable routing minimises drilling — usually just 2–3 pinhole entries through internal walls
• We hoover, take all packaging, and bin the old kit

Hand-over:

• Network map showing every cable run + AP location
• Admin login details for routers/switches
• Phone-app setup for the WiFi
• Walk-through with you before we leave

12-month install warranty: if anything we installed stops working within the first year, ring us and we’ll come back at no extra charge. After 12 months, our standard £100 callout applies. Most issues troubleshoot remotely first.

Yes — dropped video calls are usually a WiFi coverage or contention problem, not your broadband. A wired connection to your home-office desk, or a WiFi 6E/7 access point on wired backhaul nearby, gives your work devices a stable, low-latency link that doesn't compete with the rest of the house. Most people working from home in Edmonton notice the difference immediately — no more freezing mid-meeting.

Yes. Lag and jitter come from congested WiFi and long mesh hops. A wired Cat6a run to the console or gaming PC gives the lowest, most consistent ping; where a cable isn't possible, a WiFi 6E access point on the clean 6GHz band keeps the gaming device off the congested 2.4 and 5GHz bands. On a managed gateway I can also prioritise gaming traffic so a big download never spikes your ping mid-match.

Yes — buffering is almost always a coverage or capacity issue. With WiFi 6E/7 access points wired back on Cat6a, every room gets full speed and multiple 4K/8K streams run at once without stutter. For the main TV I'll usually run a dedicated wired point so the picture never drops, even when the whole house is online.